Friday 19 November 2021

Pub Fiction: Rituals

A freezing easterly wind blew through the village as the old man limped to the doorway of the public house. He turned the cold handle and opened the door with a sharp creak, closing it quickly behind him and resting his palm for a moment on the brass push-plate, staring at the fading condensation marks from his fingers when he pulled his hand away. He turned and glanced at the others in the establishment as he rolled up his worn cap and shoved it into the deep pockets of his overcoat. Four men were lined out along the counter, their elbows on the dark mahogany countertop and their hands held in front of their mouths as if in prayer. They stared straight ahead, even when they took a sip from the small glasses sitting in front of each of them. Two well-dressed men were sitting at a table on low stools, one talking in whispered tones as the other nodded along, tipping the ash from his cigarette onto the floor at his feet.

He made his way to the bar where the man behind the counter looked up at him from his newspaper and without a word took a small bottle of stout from the shelf behind him and opened it before pouring it with care into a glass and placing it in front of the old man. He took some pennies from a small pouch in his pocket and put them on the counter, then he picked up the glass and walked to a table at the back of the small room, conscious of his ungainly gait and the eyes of the men at the counter, and the man behind it, on his back. As he sat down, he heard the scrape of his coins being removed from the counter and the sound of them being thrown into a drawer that held precious few other coins on a night like this.

The two men who had been talking got up, put on their caps and left with a small nod to the man behind the bar, letting in a blast of cold air that even managed to reach the corner where the man sat. There was silence in pub now, just broken by the wind that whistled outside and the rhythmic tic-toc of the clock that hung over the back of the counter, its pendulum swinging back and forth the only movement to be seen in the dim light from the lamps on the wall.

He lifted the glass to his lips and took a drink, being careful not to spill any of it as he did so, but he placed the glass back down on the table a little too clumsily when he was wiping the froth from his lip with the sleeve of his overcoat. The thud of the glass on the wooden tabletop broke the silence, causing one of the men at the bar to look over his shoulder towards the noise before finishing his whiskey and nodding to the man behind the bar for another, which he let it sit in front of him as he returned to the same pose as his fellow silent drinkers at the counter.

The old man thought about these nights and whether they really improved his mood, but the need for some interaction, even if it was almost hostile in nature was better than staying home and staring at the flames dancing in the peat of the hearth in his hollow house. He had hurt his leg that day repairing the wood and wire fence that marked the boundary of his little farm, and the two mile walk to the village had been difficult and painful, but it was Thursday night and this was the short journey he undertook four nights a week every week to this public house in the village, where he drank two small bottles of stout before making his way back to his own house over the hill. He could not call his house a home, as a home was something comforting, a place you felt a part of, or an attachment to at least. It had ceased to be such a thing when his wife had died three years previously, and as they had not been able to have any children he was alone now in the house and in the world, or so it seemed to him. Since her funeral his life at become a series of tasks to be mentally ticked off every week or month, an existence to be lived through more than an actual life.

And this was one such undertaking, something that had to be done, like the sparse shopping he did once a month in the big town, or mass on a Sunday morning followed by a visit to the graveyard that fell away from the site of the church into what seemed to him to be the coldest part of world at times. But it was these habits that kept him functioning in this world and gave his life at least some sense of vague purpose, if only for his own sanity. He felt he was destined to perform these rituals until his body finally gave in to age and he would once again see his darling wife. He could picture her now when he closed his eyes, see her as she was in her youth. She had been a striking woman with jet black hair, skin like porcelain and green eyes that flashed and twinkled when she smiled. Even as she aged, and even as that foul disease had ravaged her body her eyes remained pure and youthful right to the end. He opened his own eyes and stared at his drink, blinking the wetness from them, as no man in this parish could be seen to be crying. He picked up his glass again and finished the remaining liquid in one go before standing up carefully and with some trouble from his lame leg going to the bar.

A bottle opened, poured, placed, and paid.

He returned to his table and stared at the clock, listening to the tic-toc and watching the pendulum, wishing he could make it go faster and that he could force time to jump forward in huge leaps to get to where he wanted to be, but knowing it was a futile task. Things happened at their own pace and the progression of the hours, weeks, months and years could not be affected by the hopes and wants of a tired old man. His leg ached even more now and as he looked at one of the men at the bar raising his glass to his lips it occurred to him that perhaps a something stronger than stout might help with the pain. He held up his thumb and forefinger an inch apart to the man behind the bar, who looked down at him curiously before pouring out a small glass and bringing it to him. He placed it beside the glass of stout, taking the worn pennies that the old man had left out for it.

He drank back the whiskey in one go and followed it with a gulp of stout to wash the taste away, but it still burned his throat and caused him to cough. He grabbed a handkerchief from his pocket and held it to his mouth as he sat there, all the while the four men at the bar stared at him via the reflection of the long mirror that hung behind the bar. He felt embarrassed at not being able to take to whiskey but in truth he was not a big drinker, and rarely had anything stronger than his small bottles. The men leaning on the bar returned to their drinks and thoughts, and the man behind it stood looking at the door and then his pocket watch, before glancing back at the old man briefly.

He thought he felt the pain easing in his leg so with that belief in his head, and wanting to show the other men he could hold his drink, he cleared his throat and signalled for another whiskey. The barman hesitated at first but eventually stretched for the bottle and went through the same routine again, removing the empty glass and replacing it with a full one. More pennies scarped along the rough wooded table.

This time he sipped it, taking care not to breathe in as he did so and having a smaller gulp of his remaining stout after each drink. He immediately began to feel better, as the pain was almost gone from his leg and he felt a numbing cloud form around the thoughts in his head. Perhaps this could be a new part to his weekly routine he thought, on Thursdays he would add a couple of small ones to his stouts, especially on cold nights like this. Yes, that is what he would do. And look, time was moving quicker now too, the clock had jumped forward and the four men had left one by one, disappearing quietly and separately into the night so that now it was just him and the man behind the bar left in the place in the near silence.

The clock chimed on the hour and the man behind the bar got up and started tidying away glasses, draping a towel over them before counting the money and recording it in a small notebook which he dropped into the drawer and locked with the turn of a key. The old man nodded to him and slowly if a little unsteadily got to his feet, raising a hand towards him to say he was fine. The man from behind the bar followed him to the door and waited until he buttoned up his overcoat, retrieved the cap from the pocket and venture out into the cold night, before locking the door behind him and turning off the lights.

The old man was now standing in the middle of the rutted road, the pain in his leg just a dull ache as he started a little unsteadily toward home. He felt warm inside for the first time in months if not years. The full moon was in his back, as was the cold wind. He watched his dim shadow dance on the uneven road as he made his way up the hill, the few lights still shining in the houses in the village quickly falling behind him as he walked onwards.

He passed the abandoned farms and the houses that stood like roofless bunkers in the moonlight, inhabited only by the long-lost memories of the people who lived there in his youth. He crested the top of the hill and looked down on his own bleak house, roofed but with the same lost ghosts of his past waiting inside the door. He stood for a moment staring at that building of cold stone and ancient timber before feeling a sense of loss creep up along the road and settle into his bones, replacing the warmth that was there just minutes before. He wanted to turn back, back to the pub for maybe one more drink if the man from behind the bar would let him back in, so he started to return to the village before stopping suddenly. Foolish, he thought to himself, and he turned again back towards home, but his bad leg suddenly gave way and he stumbled sideways, falling towards the ditch. He put out his hands to save himself but his foot slipped on a shallow muddy puddle and he was falling backwards now instead, with the whole world tilting away from him. He heard a loud crack and an intense pain in the back of his head, then he was staring at the sky.

Even with the moon at its fullest, the stars were bright and twinkling. He no longer felt cold or pain and the stars were dancing now and changing, coalescing into a pair of green eyes that sparkled and shone in a pale face surrounded by black hair …

Friday 5 November 2021

Irish Brewing History: Beer Strengths in the Early 20th Century

One of the questions that comes to mind when I look at old newspaper brewery advertisements or at a newly-found vintage beer labels is just how strong were the beers of our brewing past. Nowadays the strength of any beer is displayed on the can or bottle, or perhaps scrawled in chalk on the blackboard over the counter in our favourite bar, and if all else fails a quick search online gives you the information you require.

But this was not always the case, as in the not-so-distant past there were few if any regulations regarding the displaying to the consumer of the strength of any given beer. I am not sure that the retailer cared, nor did the customer to any great degree other than knowing that XX was stronger than X and stout was stronger than porter - although that was really only true if you were comparing the brews from just a single brewery.

But that alcohol strength is one vital piece of information that is of importance to the strangely obsessive folks that inhabit the niche world of beer history, and in the absence of a brewing record showing the gravities of the beer before and after fermentation - and those records are quite rare in Ireland - there tends to be a lot of use of the word 'probably' instead of 'definitely' - something that seems to be the case with much of our general history too.

On a Recent visit to the archive department that is housed in the basement of the the library building on the wonderful campus at University College Cork, I unearthed an interesting notebook that belonged to an Edward Cruise of Ardee Street Brewery in Dublin. My reason for being there was to look for historic brewing recipes for Cork's own Lady's Well Brewery - or Murphy's Brewery as it is more commonly known - and I found those and much more besides, but this is a small example of the other treasures held within those well-minded records.

Ardee Street Brewery had quite a few owners, and I have written very briefly about the brewery with regard to an older beer label here, but in the time period we will be focussing on it was trading as Watkins, Jameson, Pim & Co. and Edward Cruise appears to have been the head brewer there during this period. He is listed here as a member of the London Section of The Institute of Brewing since 1913 with an address at Ardee Street. He would also become head brewer in Lady's Well Brewery in 1948 and later became a board member there1. This would explain how this notebook ended up in these archives before it fell into my grateful hands - at least for one damp morning in October.

The notebook contains some quite interesting information but what stood out for me was a list of the gravities of different beers from 1906 until 1912. These were arrived at by a somewhat complicated process of distillation and gravity measuring that may or may not be entirely accurate but seems to give a relatively accurate figure for the original gravity of any given beer based on its 'present' gravity and spirit value. Mr. Cruise, or perhaps his laboratory team, had done all the hard work to give a list of final gravities (as well as other information) and this just left me with the task of calculating the Alcohol by Volume with a simple formula, and to transcribe to the best of my ability the handwritten list. You will see below where I have made some assumptions, but what it gives us is a fascinating list of the gravities of quite a number of beers that have been 'lost' up to this point.

Beer Gravities and Strengths - Calculated by the Distillation Method

YearProductPresent GravityOriginal GravityAlcohol by Vol.
1906Ardee Street Brewery(?) Vaults X No. 311.01411.05285.08%
1906Mountjoy X [Porter?]1.01441.05875.81%
1906D'Arcy & Son Porter1.01981.05875.11%
1907Mountjoy Porter1.01371.05675.64%
1907D'Arcy & Son Stout1.01841.06175.68%
1907Guinness Extra [Stout]1.02321.07326.56%
1907D'Arcy & Son Porter1.01831.05464.76%
1907Watkins X D[raught?] 1.01621.05485.07%
1907O'Connell Strong Ale1.01051.05225.47%
1907Foreign AG & Co(?) Invalid sold in Limerick - Guinness?1.02131.07607.18%
1907Watkins 14 S.S. [Special Stout]1.01261.05435.47%
1908Guinness XX Draught1.02161.07406.88%
1908Guinness same as sent to Texas(?)1.01161.07037.70%
1908O'Connell Strong Ale1.01461.05335.08%
1908Younger & Co Canteen Stout1.02371.05083.56%
1908Watkins No. 1 Skr(?) 45 XX1.01791.07557.56%
1909"Strangways" [Strangman's!] Waterford Porter1.01981.05614.76%
1909Ind Coope Luncheon Stout1.01311.05425.39%
1909Allsopp Oatmeal Stout1.01431.05545.39%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) Pale Ale supplied to canteen1.00611.05175.99%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) Mild Ale1.00611.05115.91%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) Pale Ale Ex Vaults1.00601.05115.92%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) D.S. [Double Stout] Canteen1.01341.06406.64%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) XXX Ex Vaults1.02051.08218.09%
1909Ardee Street Brewery(?) Canteen Pale Ale1.01171.05405.55%
1912Guinness X1.01451.05625.47%
1912Guinness X1.01521.05635.39%
1912Guinness X1.01541.05695.45%
1912Guinness X1.01541.05695.45%
1912Guinness XX - Sold at 3d per pintN/AN/AN/A
       1912       Ardee Street Brewery(?) No. 44 Vaults Special Stout    N/AN/AN/A
Transcribed by Liam - www.beerfoodtravel.blogspot.com - via item BL/BM/BC/445(1-7) in Cork University Library Archives
Do not reproduce without receiving permission to do so and crediting sources

This is certainly a wonderful range with some interesting notes...
  • O'Connell Strong Ale was not as strong as I would have assumed given the name
  • He acquired a sample of Guinness that was the 'same as sent to Texas' if I have transcribed it correctly, and Guinness were certainly exporting to Texas at this time according to David Hughes's 'A Bottle of Guinness Please'
  • I have assumed that where no name is given for the brewery or 'Vaults' are mentioned that these beers are from Ardee Street's Brewery's own stock - but I have no actual proof of this. It certainly gives a lovely list of the beers being brewed if we include those written as 'Watkins' - Special Stout, Draught X, Pale Ale, Mild Ale and XXX
  • 'Canteen' beers were those normally supplied to army canteens but I am not sure if this is what the term means here, although I suspect it does
  • Note how Strangman's in Waterford is written as 'Strangway's' - almost Strangeways!
  • The 'Watkins No. 1 Skr(?) 45 XX' is quite a strong beer but I cannot quite make out some of the writing. I am assuming that the numbers shown beside various recipes refer to the gyle - again I have no proof of that
  • We see a Younger's weak looking canteen stout listed as well as an Ind Coope Luncheon Stout and an Allsopp Oatmeal Stout - both at the same abv
There are some notes to the side of the list that give the actual OGs of some of Ardee Street Brewery's own beers (as well as figures from a Lipton Analysis?) and although they do not match exactly the calculated FG figure, they are generally close enough to right to give me confidence that the gravities of the beers are relatively accurate for the purposes of showing the strengths of the various brews.

Here are the original pages from the notebook to show the extra information and other notes ...

©Murphys Archive item BL/BM/BC/445(1-7), Special Collections & Archives, UCC Library, University College Cork, Ireland

© Murphys Archive item BL/BM/BC/445(1-7), Special Collections & Archives, UCC Library, University College Cork, Ireland

I hope you find this information as interesting as I did, I must admit I was quite excited to see it jump from the pages of a century old book ...

(With thanks to all the extremely helpful and professional people in the archive department in UCC.)

Liam

1 ‘The Murphy Story’ – Donal Ó Drisceoil & Diarmuid Ó Drisceoil

All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source, and a link back to this post.

Original images are © Murphys Archive item BL/BM/BC/445(1-7), Special Collections & Archives, UCC Library, University College Cork, Ireland from whom I have received permission to display these images on this site.