Thursday, 21 January 2021

Egan's Tullamore Pale Ale - Beautiful! Bright! Brilliant!

Here's a nice front page advertisement from The Midland Tribune from 1888 for 'Tullamore Pale Ale' brewed by P & H Egan in - obviously - Tullamore in county Offaly. It was 'highly popular' they say and available in 'bright and creamy order' in hogsheads, barrels, kilderkins, firkins, pins and bottles with their own 'Special Pale Ale Label'. Such a range of sizes, and no mention here of other brews, perhaps shows just how popular it was in the town and surrounding area, even though they were brewing both ales and porters from when the refurbished the brewery in 1886 according to other advertisements.

In 1890, two years after that pale ale announcement, they were back with a page-long advertisement that was a call-to-arms to 'Artisans and Labourers' to stop drinking English and Scotch Ale and to drink Irish brewed ales! Nice to see another mention of what I've shown to be the relatively common 'Irish Mild' too, as well as their porter and double stout. 

By the way  they were cheekily calling it 'Burton Pale Ale' in and earlier advertisements in 1887, using that name as a descriptor of its quality and taste we shall charitably say, and in fairness they do explain that it is their own brewing of that 'style' ...

The pale ale was available until 1897 least, and there is plenty more about Egan's of Tullamore online if you're interested.

(Let me know if there are issues reading any advertisement and I can transcribe the contents.)

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post. All original photographs are my own and can not be used elsewhere without my consent.)

Newspaper images © The British Library Board - All rights reserved. With thanks to The British Newspaper Archive (www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk from whom I have received permission to display here). 

Monday, 11 January 2021

Lost in the Noise? - Smithwick's Black Diamond Ale

A while back I came across what I thought was quite an obscure label for an ale brewed in St. Francis Abbey Brewery in Kilkenny - more popularly known as the Smithwick's Brewery. 'Black Diamond Ale' certainly wasn't a brand I'd come across before but after studying it a little and putting it up on Twitter I filed it among my many other Smithwick's labels, where it sat until some spark in the back of my brain reminded me of its existence.

As some of you already know, I have a love/hate relationship with Smithwicks. The brewery as a company has had such a huge impact both locally in Kilkenny and globally too, that it's impossible not to think of them when one discusses the brewing history of Ireland. Unfortunately the history that they choose to promote isn't correct in my opinion, as if you listened to any of their recent marketing from the last few decades one would think they were brewing the current iteration of their red ale since 1710 - or even earlier if you believe that monks were brewing it in the abbey itself! I've written a little about their history here, about their Time brand here and even about their lost lager brand - Idea - here. These may give you an idea of where I am coming from with my comments, so I won't go back down that much travelled road here - but it does raise an important point.

Has this cleansing of a brand's timeline, where the marketing companies behind them have purged and pruned away anything that might poke holes in their fakelore, left Irish brewing history in a sorry state? Using Smithwick's as an example - where are their references to all the wonderful sounding beers the brewed since 1827/28, the brewery's actual founding date? Their stouts, their mild ales, their dinner ales, their East India Pale Ales and other are lost in the monotony of their one-beer braggery, and even their 'old' best selling 'No.1 Ale' - a pale ale as I keep stressing - is lost behind that behemoth 'traditional red' ale that was launched c. 1965.

So getting back to 'Black Diamond Ale', I was getting frustrated looking for information on this beer and I was beginning to think that this was just a prototype label for a beer that never saw the light of day. Especially as it appears to have been trimmed to shape by hand, although it seems to have some age ... ruling out a recent copy. A quick look in newspapers from this time finally threw up one lonely result, but even this is important as it shows that it did exist out in the wild at one point, as in a 1955 a gentleman from Borris in Carlow was before the court on a drunk driving charge after being in a local pub listening to a match and 'all the while was drinking "Black Diamond" ale." We get another hint of what this ale might be at the start of the report, as the Garda giving evidence says that 'the defendant [...] admitted having taken [drunk] ten or twelve bottles of barley wine'.*  (The charge was dismissed by the way, as although he had been sitting in his car when arrested the judge decreed he had not attempted to drive it.)

The label too is the same size as Smithwick's Barley Wine above and of similar style, so it is possible it was another form or strength of that style. My own feeling is that it was perhaps just a rebrand of their existing product, but why would they do that? The only connection I can make is that Kilkenny was famous for it's coal, specifically the area around Castlecomer not very far from Kilkenny city. (That coal seam also crossed into neighbouring Laois where there was a huge amount of mining in the 19th and early 20th century, an area where I grew up.). That coal was called 'Black Diamond' and even those who mined it were called 'Black Diamonds' as reported in a few newspapers so it is quite possible that it was labelled as such as a tribute to the county's coal mining history and its miners. It would be interesting and mildly exciting if it turned out to be a stronger barley wine.

Unfortunately I can find no other references to the ale but I still think it is more than worthy of a mention here, as it is some small part of our brewing history and therefore it should be remembered and recorded, even if my thoughts are pure conjecture. It's just a pity that it hasn't been recorded elsewhere (that I can find) and that the Smithwick's brewing history isn't freely available online - but then again, that might jar with the myth ...

UPDATE: By chance I came across the following invoice and matching delivery docket from 1951 that seems to prove my theory that Black Diamond Ale was indeed Smithwick's Barley Wine in different clothing. The cask (firkin) number matches and the delivery docket clearly states Black Diamond while the invoice says Barley Wine ...


The invoice itself is of interest too, as it gives the publican clear instructions regarding the venting and returning of casks:

'When venting the Casks please bore through the Bung, and not through the Stave, and when emptied have Corks and Vents placed in them, and returned in reasonable time, advising us thereof.'

There are also instructions on conditioning:

'IMPORTANT - TO ENSURE THE BRILLIANCY AND GOOD CONDITION OF OUR ALES THEY SHOULD BE KEPT IN A TEMPERATURE OF 55° - 60° FAHR [13° - 16°C]. TO ENABLE US TO MAINTAIN SUPPLIES IT IS IMPERATIVE FOR CUSTOMERS TO RETURN ALL VESSELS IMMEDIATELY THEY ARE EMPTY.'

(That is certainly my kind of ale serving temperature!)

Last but not least, note the telegram address 'MALT' and the telephone number - 14.

A nice find ...

Liam

[Updated 9th March 2021]

Just as a footnote, there is a bit of a resemblance to certain Bass labels ...

(EDIT: See Martyn Cornell's comment below too ...)

*New Ross Standard - Friday 30 September 1955

(All written content, photography and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Monday, 4 January 2021

Ty o' Letch an Koornt Vleash : Some thoughts on Yola words for food and drink ...

Back in 1867 an Englishman called William Barnes published a book with the typical-for-the-time long title of 'A Glossary with Some Pieces of Verse of the Old Dialect of the English Colony in the Baronies of Forth and Bargy, County of Wexford, Ireland', which included information collected by Wexford native Jacob Poole around 1823. At the time it probably didn't raise much of a ripple in the publishing world but in the intervening years it has been used as a reference book by many researchers into the nearly lost history of a small area of Wexford that was settled by a group of Norman/English, Flemish and possibly other groups back in the 12th century. Due to geography and perhaps an insular attitude they didn't mix much with the local Irish or other later 'settlers' and so retained their own old language and customs up until relatively recent times, although it seem the language is now practically dead, just surviving in a few borrowed words. The language was called Yola after the name for 'old' in that tongue.

Wiser minds than mine can tell more of the Yoles history and indeed have done so in various publications, as there are a few recent books published and some content online including a short documentary in the RTE archives, but here I want to look at some of their words for food and drinks that are to be found in the glossary in the above mentioned book, collected by Poole and added to by Barnes from writing by General Charles Vallencey, Edmund Hore and Richard Stanyhurst.

Barnes goes into great detail on pronunciation and origins of the language, suggesting it is closely connected to the language spoken in Somerset, Dorset and Devon in the past so you can read more about this in the link to the book posted below and in other online sources. (Another newspaper source from 1845 mentions a connection with Pembrokeshire in Wales and how a 'mixed old Saxon and Welch[sic] language was spoken up to recently'  in that area of Wexford but I didn't come across other mentions, although to my ear a Wexford accent and a certain type of Welsh accent are not a million miles apart!)  I am far from being a linguist but I'm going to look at some of the pronunciations briefly, albeit with that untrained eye and ear so take it all with a grain of salt or a gryne o' zall should I say! On the pronunciations suggested by Barnes in his book, later publications have raised doubts over some of his ideas and perhaps we'll never know for sure how to say certain words given that the language is practically lost and much of it is recorded as writing and very little as spoken word.

Before I dive in there is one comment that Barnes mentions which I think is quite noticeable even today, and that's the habit among certain Wexford people to speak slower than their neighbouring counties and to draw out certain vowel sounds, for example 'book' is often pronounced with a long 'oo' sound like the word 'shoe' instead of the clipped pronunciation others use that sounds like 'tuck'. I'm not sure if this way of speaking crept out of the Yola barony or into it but there may be a connection. In Yola too, by my reading of the linguistic text in the book, the letter 'a' is normally drawn to be less like 'bag' or 'cat' and more like the sound in 'father' or 'awe' but I'm unsure whether that too is in the modern tongue but I believe it is, as are other vowel changes. I'm prepared to be challenged on it but I think Yellow Belly would be pronounced (roughly) as 'Yalla Bahly' by some Wexford tongues, although all of these pronunciations are probably not exclusively just from that county.

I think all of this might be reflected in how some of the words listed below sound like colloquial pronunciations of words we say differently today in more modern 'new' English speech, but I'm wondering was the Yola way of speaking the original 'English' pronunciation? Possibly it was in some cases, as Irish-English would have possibly slowed or stalled in its evolution compared with what was happening in England and was so preserved here for longer, and still exists today in many of words of course. Again it's worth mentioning that I am very far out of my comfort zone with this post in regard to the subject matter and my own knowledge!

___

So here's the edited list of vaguely food or drink related words as it appears in the aforementioned book any comments by me are in square brackets afterwards:

Aalhouse - Alehouse ~ [From this we can presumably assume ale was 'aal', possibly pronounced 'awl' - closer to certain European pronunciations.]

Atheen - Eating ~ [Irish-English pronunciation of eating would often be close to 'ay-(t)en' with an almost non-existent 't' sound.]

Baakooze - An oven ~ [That drawn element of speech I mentioned is evident here, and in many others below.]

Baakoozee - To bake bread in an oven

Baarich, Barish - Barley ~ [Interesting word, I wonder about the origins. One 19th century glossary mentions 'Barliche' as another word for barley, which is close.]

Barrm - Barm

Bawkoon - Bacon ~ [Again we see the phonetics of the drawn sound with the use of a 'w'.]

Beasthès - Cows ~ [Isn't 'beastie' Scottish?]

Bidaades - Potatoes

Borde - A table ~ [Bord in Irish language but this is an Anglo-Saxon spelling and from which we probably get 'Bed and Board' or 'Board and Lodgings', as in getting fed from the table.]

Brandeyrons - Kettles, pots, etc. ~ [Related to Gridiron (cooking grate) possibly?]

Breed - Bread

Brekvast - Breakfast

Busk - A thick small cake of white meal ~ [Barnes thought perhaps the word 'biscuit' came from this - as in a diminutive of 'busk', and it's an interesting idea. I can't find anything about the word itself in this context but it's interesting that this would also describe the savoury scone-like American 'biscuit'. In the book 'Yola and the Yoles' (see below) Sullivan says Busk was a spiced corn bread.]

Caake - Cake

Cooanes - Wooden cups or vessels without handles ~ [ Possibly  and probably connected with the word cone, or maybe can. Do I detect a Welsh pronunciation in that spelling?]

Coorn - Corn

Correate - Carrot

Coshur - A feast ~ [Drifted in from the Irish Cóisir for a feast or banquet.]

Craueet - In danger of choking for want of a drink in eating ~ [This is one of my favourites, the words 'craw' and 'eat' are there but the thirst bit must be implied!]

Crewst - Crust

Deneare/Dineare - Dinner

Dhernapès - Turnips

Dhirtee - Thirsty

Gaubbach, Gubbauch, Gubbach/Kaayle - Cabbage ~ [Interesting that the 'C' sound is replaced by a 'G'.]

Geearth/Geearte - A she-goat ~ [Might explain why nanny goats are often called Gertie or Gerty!]

Graapish - Stale victuals ~ [Barnes suggests it's connected to another Yola word 'Graabache' which he says means 'Dirty Trash'  and, no, 'trash' isn't an Americanism but let's not go off on that tangent ...]

Greeleen - Young cod-fish ~ [Strange that this is like Grayling, a freshwater fish not native to Ireland. Herring below is similarly formed as 'Heereen' with -een being like -ing it seems in the Yola language and not like the Irish demunitive ending for words.]

Gryne - Grain

Gurth - A goat ~ [See nanny goat above.]

Gurthes, Gurt, Grut - Cutlings, coarse meal ~ [Coming from Dutch or Old English seemingly, for ground grain. Is this where American 'grits' come from too? Presumably via the word gritty...]

Hearesth - Harvest

Harnothes - Pignuts ~ [Hard nuts maybe? Certainly a pain to find and harvest it seems!]

Heereen/Hereen - Herring

Henee - Honey

Hulmogee - A small cupboard in the wall ~ [ Another nice word that I can't make sense of, but our author mentions a lady in Dorset who had a oak cabinet she called a 'Holmogen'.]

Hungherth - Hungry

Hyle - To pour, as liquor or rain ~ [Barnes again mentions a west of English word 'hele' as in 'Hele out the yäle' meaning  pour out the ale, and it meaning some leaning to one side. The strange thing is that my family would have used 'to heel' as a phrase meaning to empty something out, as in 'He heeled the box out on the floor' meaning it was tipped out on the floor. A 19th century glossary mentions it as a word for emptying a bucket in Gloucestershire. (In a quick poll on Twitter 81% of you thought I'd made it up, which surprised me. Of those who knew the word most were in the south-eastern half of Ireland, which does makes sense.]

Jock - The Belly ~ [Barnes suggests it actually meant the leather pitcher used for carrying ale.]

Kaake - A cake

Kappas/Knappas - Dumplings of meal ~ [Another odd one, the author suggests a connection with knobs which makes sense shapewise and Knappe/knop was Anglo-Saxon for button. Knapple meant to bite or nibble in the north of England and Knoppit was a word for the small lump in the east all of these are probably from the same root word..]

Keene/Khyne/Keeine - Kine

Keow - Cow ~ [I have heard the word being pronounced in this way, or at least as a key-ow - not sure it was in Wexford though...]

Khuingoke - A churn ~ [ This is from the Irish word Cuinneog.]

Khuinggokee - Churning

Kon - Can ~ [Again an typical - to me - pronunciation in Irish-English.]

Koorn - Corn ~ [Interesting how K is being used instead of C, does that hark back to old English of to Flemish? I don't know but it looks Dutch...]

Koornt - Salted ~ [From corns as in small pellets of salt I'd imagine, still used when we talk about pepper corns, etc. for example]

Koornt Vleash - Corned meat ~ [See Koornt above an of course flesh.]

Kraanberry - Gooseberry ~ [Something may be lost in translation here as in cranberry? Kraanberry is a named used for some wild relatives of it here too.]

Kruck - A crock, metal pot

Letch - Small beer ~ [This is another odd one, as it's not a word I've ever heard associated with beer or drink. The author suggests that it means 'what is moist or wet' as a connection and a 19th century glossary says letch meant a vessel for making lye (a soap ingredient) in the east of England.]

Lhauch - A griddle ~ [Another odd word that I can't connect with anything.]

Lhawm/Lowem - A lamb

Maate - Flesh meat ~ [Again the Irish-English pronunciation would sound like 'mate', and still does in certain accents.]

Mault - Malt

Meale - A feast, meal, as dinner ~ [Again, this would be pronounced even still as 'Male' in certain accents.]

Measkeen - A flat-bottomed basket for straining potatoes ~ [No ideas on this one, the -een here may be  from the diminutive used in Hiberno-English taken from Irish, or could be the -ing of Yola', but I've to idea on the first part.]

Mele, Mell - Meal, flour

Met - Food ~ [As in an old general word for food - meat - I assume.]

Met-borde - A dining table ~ [Remember my comment on 'Bed & Board' above...]

Mossaale - A morsel

Mulke, Melk - Milk

Muskawn - A large heap or lump (in relation to food) ~ [Yet another odd one, múscán in Irish means a sponge or spongey but I can't see a real connection.]

Muthon, Mothoon - Mutton

Neape - A parsnip ~ [Neeps are turnips, or probably swedes in Scotland but in fairness both vegetables end in -nip so this makes senses, nape meant knob-like seemingly.]

Palske - A kind of cake? ~ [The book's author was unsure of this one as he used brackets and a question mark around its entry. I certainly can't shed any light on it....]

Paug - The harvest ~ [Barnes suggests that it possible comes from the Irish for kiss - póg - and is back-formed from the word 'paugh-meale' meaning 'harvest-home' but coming from the 'kissing time', which was seeming harvest time...]

Pee - A pye ~ [A pie but oddly pronounced even to my Hiberno-English tainted ear!]

Pipper - Pepper

Pizzen - Peas ~ [Mentioned elsewhere as an example, according to Barnes, of the 'Friesic-English' plural en ending for words?]

Pocket/Pucket - A lump of bread ~ [Can't see a connection here in any way to any other words but my other old glossary also says its an obsolete word for the same thing. It's also the name for a measure of hops by the way.]

Puckawne/puckane - A he-goat

Puddeen - Pudding

Pultry - Poultry

Ree - Rye

Reem, Rhyme - Cream ~ [Cream is 'Room' in Dutch/Flemish so we perhaps see how this formed?]  

Risheen, Rusheen - An afternoon luncheon, a snack in the evening ~ [Yet another odd one to me, Barnes mentions the word 'Rushing' in south-east England meaning something similar.]

Risheeneare - A rusheen-eater, snack-eater

Saareth, sarrth - Served out, as food

Sheck - Ice ~ [Certainly odd but I've a nagging feeling I've heard this word before in connection with ice or frost...]

Shraanes, Shruanes - Shreds, slices of cake/bread ~ [Sounds Irish but I can't find a similar word.]

Sippeare/Seppeare - Supper

Skelpearès - Small pigs ~ [Barnes suggests it comes from the word skelp meaning to move quickly, which would make sense. It's a word I think I've heard or read in connecting with pigs but I'm not sure, I definitely heard and used 'Schkelp' as a slap ...]

Skudhelès - knives ~ [ Barnes mentions the word 'Scottle' from the west of England meaning to cut off, I'm not familiar of it in any way.]

Slug - To eat greedily ~ [The only way I've heard this word is when drinking, as in a slug of whiskey, but maybe there's a connection.]

Spone - Spoon

Strabut, Stirabout - Oatmeal porridge

Ty - A drink ~ [I can't think of where this has survived, which is surprising in one way, as drinking is such a common occurrence! I'm also unsure if it was pronounced 'tee' or 'tie'.]

Vaat - A dish, noggin, or small vessel ~ [Like vat we can assume I think?]

Vengence - Venison ~ [Another odd one, I'd suggest it's just down to the pronunciation and accent, becoming 'Venshen' and then 'Vengence'. i can't see how it would be connected to the word 'Vengance'...]

Veseal - Vessel 

Vleash, Vlesh - Meat

Vork - Fork

Whet - Wheat

Zall - Salt

Zar, Zarth - Served

Zed - Stewed ~ [Just a contraction perhaps?]

Zheep - Sheep

I would be interested in any observations on the words from anywhere on the planet, the people of this area spent time with the fishing communities of Newfoundland so maybe some words wandered that direction. I wonder have some of the more obscure survived in areas of England or indeed in Pembrokeshire? There may even be some words still in use of the other lost community and language of the Fingallians of county Dublin. 

The above mentioned book Yola and the Yoles has more insight into the Yola life, including a section on food and drink. (I must thank Charlie Roche, @charleymcguffin on Twitter, for pointing me in its direction.) It's also interesting that the author, Aidan Sullivan, mentions hops growing wild in the area, plus he mentions that the women were the brewers in the society, not that this is unusual in any way or course but I wonder did the practice survive longer there than elsewhere? It's mentioned in a number of old accounts that the ale was excellent too by the way, and that tobacco was also grown there, as it was in other parts of the country of course. A final snippet is that they people in this area of the county - and maybe beyond - were also known to take a siesta - a 'Noonteet' - in the afternoon!

It is worth mentioning that Barnes, our author and editor, never visited Wexford - or indeed Ireland - as far as I can see, but based his thoughts and writings on the research of others instead. That may mean nothing but it's important to note that he never heard the language first hand, or what remained of it by then. Keep that in mind as you read his book, which is available via Google Books here.

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Wednesday, 30 December 2020

Of Puns & Prairie Oysters - An American Drink Buffet in Dublin, 1892

In March of 1892 The Burlington Hotel & Restaurant in Dublin (Not the newer iteration, this one was in that lovely building on the corner of Andrew's Street and Church Lane, opposite the church and the Molly Malone statue.) hosted a celebrity of sorts in the shape of an 'American Drink Concocter', perhaps a precedent mixologist or a cocktail maker, although I can't find much else about him online in a quick search. This Mr. Fenlon seems to have done the rounds - even appearing in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show - and could make up any number of interesting sounding drinks including the new-to-me 'Heap of Comfort', 'Stone Fence' and a 'Dog's Nose', but then again I have led a sheltered life and cocktails are not really of huge interest to me, although some of those listed may be worth investigating further ...

What was more of interest to me were the Prairie Oyster, as I did a double take thinking in my mind of Rocky Mountain Oysters, but this type of oyster is a little less controversial being made with a shelled but unbroken raw egg, tomato juice, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, salt and ground black pepper plus alcohol, usually brandy - although these ingredients seem to vary greatly from recipe to recipe. This 'American Buffet' first appeared in 1886 when, I'd suggest, many of these drinks were first seen on these shores, brought over by the Burlington's then manager Mr. G. J. Heron who I suspect was an American or at least an Americophile given he worked in Cincinnati and New York previously. (There's more history on the establishment here.)

But what really caught my eye was the fun inclusion of a 'Drinking Time Table' in the advertisement that gives you a handy name for that drink you partake of at various times of the day and which I will transcribe here:
6 am, Eye Opener
7 am, Appetizer
8 am, Digester
9 am, Quarter Stretch
10 am, Refresher
11 am, Stimulator
12 noon, Lunch
1 pm, Settler
2 pm, Cooler
3 pm, Three-Quarter Pole
4 pm, Mutual Smile
5 pm, Invigorator
6 pm, Home Stretch
7 pm, Social Chat
8 pm, Fancy Smile
9 pm, Broad Grin
10 pm, Preparer
11 pm, Night Cap
12 pm, A Lecture Deliver Us
The relationship of the sun versus the yardarm be damned if you are having an Eye Opener or a Digester, but to each their own I guess - whatever gets you through trying times ...

And if this wasn't enough the advertisement then delivers a serious of puns of drinks for certain occupations or personalities:
Homesick Mariner - Dry Port
Recluse - Hermitage
Nurseryman - Shrub
Bird Fancier - Canary
Pillaging Soldier - Sac
Officer Encamped - Tent
Affable Person - Cordial
Pugilist - Punch
Trapper - Gin
Tide Waiter - Currant Wine
Silent Party - Still Hock
Disputant Irishman - Rayson Wine
Irish Cook - Poteen
Carrier - Porter
Robust Man - Stout
Lunatic - Mad-eira
Driver of a Two-in-Hand - Rhenish Wine
Undertaker - Beer
Odd-Fellow - Rum
Sick Body - Pale Ale
Sprightly One - Sparkling Champagne
Okay, I'll admit that some of those are stretching it a little, and some are quite obscure drink references, but surely even bad jokes can make you smile?

I'm sure we could come up with a host of more modern ones these days.

IF we wanted to ...

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Newspaper images © The British Library Board. All rights reserved. With thanks to The British Newspaper Archive  -www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk)

Thursday, 3 December 2020

The City of Dublin Brewery - An early illustrated brewery advertisement

Another short post just to show this nice illustrated newspaper advertisement for The City of Dublin Brewery from 1870. It features a stylised entrance archway and presumably the brewery in the background. It's hardly a photograph or proper illustration of the property but it's still a nice image, showing a man leading a dray with barrels out of the entrance and signs on the pillars advertising XX Extra Stout and X Stout. The quality isn't great, as it's from a newspaper, but I've enlarged, enhanced and sharpened it as much as I could - I'm just happy to have found it as I haven't seen it elsewhere ...

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Newspaper image © The British Library Board. All rights reserved. With thanks to The British Newspaper Archive  -www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk)

Wednesday, 2 December 2020

More Historic Irish Mild Ales! Up North in Coleraine Brewery ...

Just a quick post to flag more Irish Mild Ales - Coleraine Brewery were brewing three different types in Derry in 1859. I haven't delved hugely into the history of the brewery but there was a brewery of the same name operating in 1837 that was being touted as 'long established' when up for sale at this time. This namesake brewery erected or renovated in Brook Street by James Moore, the owner of the town's distillery, and was in the ownership of a Mr. John Topp from Cork from around 1868 but was for sale again by 1871 when said Mr. Topp went bankrupt. It was owned by Robert Taylor, the then owner of the distillery by 1873, when I lost sight of it - but in truth didn't look very hard...


But back to to beers - we have:
Mild Bottling Ale
XXX Mild Ale
XX Mild Ale
Pale India Ale ('highly hopped is stated here in other advertisements.) 
Pale Table Ale
Table Beer
Which is a nice range by anyone's standard and not a porter to be seen at this point! (Although an article around this time does mention that the hope to commence brewing it shortly thereafter, and they were advertising XXX, XX and X porter by 1863.)

From another advertisement, where they were selling hops and malt to bakers, we can gather that the were using Kent hops and Chevalier pale malt - as both are mentioned - but apart from the usual occasional local plaudits for the quality I don't know much more about these beers.

Anyway, nice to see more old Irish Milds out and about!

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Newspaper images © The British Library Board. All rights reserved. With thanks to The British Newspaper Archive  -www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk  - where most of the information I've complied here was sourced.)

Thursday, 26 November 2020

More than a Glass, Less than a Pint - Getting the Measure of the Irish 'Meejum'

Kerry Evening Post. - Wednesday 11 September 1889

In October of 1960 a London visitor to the west of Ireland felt aggrieved enough to write to the Sligo Champion* to complain about what amounted to a short-pour-of-a-short-pour of Guinness. His issue was that while in Claremorris (Mayo) the usual drink of the locals was a 'medium' of stout and that 'the Claremorris "medium" is filled out in a pint tumbler and is nearly filled to the top' for 10d but later in his trip he was rather annoyed that while visiting Sligo town he was served his "medium" in a half pint tumbler which had 'a "collar" on it of about three-quarters of an inch' and for which he was charge 6d - poor value to his mind and more importantly either the concept of 'The Medium' was either unknown in Sligo or someone was trying to pull a fast one on this canny visitor. He also has some barbed comments regarding Sligo pubs in general, calling them 'drab affairs [...] badly lit up and badly in need of modernising', and goes on to complain even more about the 'Collar' on all sizes of Guinness poured there, being particularly perturbed by a one inch head on a pint of Guinness...

But let us return to the 'Medium', or 'Meejum' (sometimes even 'Maejum') as it is often pronounced but rarely written. Any readers who were up to now unfamiliar with such a measure will probably have grasped the concept from the Londoner's description above. It was what would now be considered a short-pour 'pint' of beer where a pint glass was not quite filled to the top. Nowadays it's mostly talked and reported about in connection with one particular establishment, Johnny McHale's pub in Castlebar - again in Mayo - where up to quite recently at least you still order a meejum of Guinness and where they have almost claimed it as their own, but what is the history of this measure and when, why and where did it begin?

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I think most of the older history of the 'meejum' is lost to us, as it was something that was rarely advertised and probably only discussed verbally for many years, but thanks to a few newspaper mentions - many times in court cases - I can hopefully fill in a couple of blanks in its story. (I am going to be a little erratic in my own use of medium or meejum throughout this post, depending on actual usage I am reporting, and my poetic needs...)

The first mention I can find is in the Kerry Evening Post in 1889, when two men involved in an altercation had gone into O'Connor's public house in Tralee and called for two "meejums". The court report doesn't tell us the beverage they consumed but at least it pushes it back to the late nineteenth century, and how it was mentioned makes me think it was a common enough term, especially as there were questions regarding its legality from at least 1892, which seems to imply it was an long-standing practice - more on this later.

There are many more - in 1895 according to the Cork Constitution a woman who was in 'the habit of throwing tumblers' allegedly struck a man with a "medium" of porter, and in Nenagh, Tipperary, in 1901 a Mrs. Corbett was fined for selling 'a jug with two mediums of porter in it' outside licensing hours, (It is curious how the constable who witnessed the breach could tell the volume of liquid in the jugs, unless medium in certain cases just meant 'measures'.) and there is a mention in Limerick too.

Next we see a medium of ale in Roscrea, and mediums of stout in both Kerry and Cork again, and also in Louth in 1904; back in Cork we have mention of a jug containing a medium of porter and another story involving 'three mediums' of porter, plus a drowning victim in Kerry who had drank a medium of porter all in 1908; it gets mentioned as a 'medium of ale' in Offaly, and mediums of porter are still in Cork and Kerry in 1910; we see a first mention for Galway - 'medium of beer' - plus Kerry and Tipperary get mentions in 1911; Kerry and Tipperary yet again in 1912, and also Cork where a women was accused of  concealing four mediums of porter 'in two vessels' under her shawl, and in the same year I came across a report that mentions a medium of ale in Callan in Co. Kilkenny, and in Galway a woman admitted that 'she got too many mediums of porter'; in 1916 Kerry and Drogheda get a mention - the latter for a 'medium of ale' and the following year in 1917, we finally see a Sligo comment, both for mediums of stout; 1917 is also the first year I can find where it is discussed in Dublin, as due to trade restrictions it says that in rural towns 'the retailers are also following the Dublin policy of  'only serving glasses or "mediums" [their quotes] of porter or stout, where hitherto the popular pint was the measure in request.'; we are back in Offaly in 1924 and in Tipperary again in 1928 with mediums of stout; in 1938 we see a second Sligo mention with a medium of porter; then mediums of stout in Tipperary in 1944 and Sligo in 1958 then a final mention until the modern era in Wexford Town in 1963.

There after the word crops up only very occasionally, more often than not just very recently and with the McHale's pub connection I mentioned above.

As I am sure you can appreciate, looking for mentions of 'meejums' in newspapers is hardly an exacting scientific study as to the origins of the word but taken at face value it would appear that the term originated in the southwest of Ireland. Perhaps beginning in Cork or Kerry in the late 19th century before moving into Limerick and Tipperary, and drifting or jumping to other regions as the years went by, then retreating back to just a few locations - or even pubs - by the second half of the 20th century.

(Incidentally, the word 'meejum' is rarely used in newspapers, it is almost always 'medium' in articles although I would imagine that this is down to the reporter in many cases translating the almost Hiberno-English word into 'proper' English.)

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So, how much beer was actually in a meejum? The simple answer seems to be a little less than a pint as per the comments from our annoyed Londoner above, but I have come across a couple of others mentions of the volume too. In a court case in Dundalk in 1904** the judge has the same question and was told it was 'a glass and a half' (426ml) and another mention in 1901 that says it was 'two-thirds of a pint' (379ml). A more recent comment from a letter to the Irish Independent in 2003 looking for the medium to be reinstated, it is said that it was 'approximately 500ml'.  With a pint being 568ml we can see some wildly fluctuating volumes here, but I think we are missing the original point of the medium, which was to give the consumer a drink based on price and not volume, so therefore it is very possible that a medium was a different size in different counties - and even different pubs. It was a portion of beer that equalled a value that was acceptable to the working man.

Something that throws a slight spanner in to the workings of this idea is the fact that we have specific medium glasses mentioned from time to time, even if the first example almost backs up my argument.

In Cork in 1892*** there was an 'Important case which interests all publicans in the city' It was an appeal by Jeremiah Lucy against 'a penalty for selling porter in a vessel popularly known as a "medium" which the authorities alleged was not under the denomination of any stamp of the Board of Trade standard, and consequently its use was in contravention of the Weights and Measures Act of 1878.' The defence cleverly argued that the glasses were not supposed to hold a certain volume of porter but a certain value and therefore did not come under the Boards remit and that asking 'for three-half-pence of porter was like asking for a pennyworth of tobacco which was not a quantity recognised by law.' The judge appears to have sided with the defence that 'the measure was a customary one and did not come under any Board of Trade standard' ... but then says that this actually made the measure illegal.

As early as 1896 we have a raid on publicans in Cork by and inspector who, under the Weights and Measures Act, confiscation many medium glasses from almost everywhere he called. The same article goes on to say that 'the medium was abolished years ago as an illegal measure' and that 'in some houses he seized about sixty measures.' Illegal or not, its use seems to have been rive up to this point and well beyond in the city as we have seen. (Note that the sergeant was dressed in a bicycle costume as a disguise!)

 Freeman's Journal - Tuesday 03 March 1896

In the advertisement below we have John Lyons in Paul Street Cork selling pint tumblers, half pint tumblers and 'medium ale glasses' in 1901.

Cork Examiner  Thursday 17 January 1901

Below we have the condemnation and warning of the 'Medium' in Limerick where there were 'prosecutions instituted against a number of publicans in the city for using a glass called a "medium", which contained two-thirds of a pint. This was illegal, as the police could not stamp such a measure,...' The J.P. says that the practice was general and he knew of publicans who had got in two dozen glasses recently.

Freeman's Journal - Tuesday 22 October 1901

In the Midland Tribune in 1912 there was a case regarding a publican from Templemore who was fined for having six glass measures in his possession for use which were not of Board of Trade Standard (unstamped). The inspector who visited the premises claimed the publican said he used the glasses for selling mediums of stout. The publican said he used to 'sell mediums of porter for which he used to charge 1 1/2d' but no longer did and just used these glasses for bottled drinks, which did not require them to be stamped, as those drinks were premeasured. Inspector went on the say that the publican had claimed at the time of his visit that he sold more mediums than pints. The publican then claimed he was given conflicting information as to whether he could use them or not by policemen but was still fined.

An American publication called 'Daily Consular and Trade Reports' from 1914 mentions in some detail the glassware available in Ireland and specifically in the Munster areas with a view to American suppliers muscling in on the glass import market. Here are the relevant paragraphs ...

'Daily Consular and Trade Reports' - 1914

You can see that there were huge amounts of all types of glasses being imported into Cork and although not all would be destined for the pub trade a large percentage would be used in those establishments. The shape of the 'Medium' is interesting as it mentions 'bell-shaped' - plus that they were 'three-quarter pint' - and that they were made from thinner and better glass, and were sourced from the continent. A cheaper rougher version had recently been sourced from Belgium.

An interesting mention in the excellent Beamish & Crawford - The History of an Irish Brewery by Donal Ó Drisceoil and Diarmuid Ó Drosceoil was brought to my attention by Cian Duffy, where it was argued by Richard Beamish (speaking in 1925) that it was not a brewery strike in 1920 but rather the development of the 'meejum' in Cork 'before the First World War' that had allowed Guinness to get a shoe in the door of Cork pubs. Guinness was selling at 2½d a pint while the local brews sold at 2d a pint, so customers asked for - and were given - 2d worth of Guinness, and so the 'meejum' was born. It is an interesting point of view but as we saw earlier the term itself goes back to before 1889, so it was in use well before the time suggested by Mr. Beamish. Seemingly, he had asked the Inland Revenue to investigate the matter in 1909 but nothing became of it.

So, as we can see from all of these mentions that an actual 'medium' glass did exist, although nowhere does it give the exact volume and this raises the next point - the legality of the 'medium' glass. The issue then, as it is know as far as I know, is that any glass size is legal as long as it has been verified by the appropriate body to contain the volume being stated as sold, so the issues above were not with the glass as such but that it was not possible for them to be verified because there was no way of doing so (as it was an unconventional beer volume), whereas now we can have a multitude of sizes and sell them accordingly, as they are all verified with appropriate CE marks. (I am very prepared to be corrected on this!)

Perhaps this is also why those glasses disappeared, as it was much easier for the publican to serve a short measure in a pint glass than suffer the wrath and legal machinations of the Board of Trade. So the 'meejum' became a short-pour pint, but still based on price by my estimation and backed up somewhat by the Beamish reference above. Also, from all the cases and mentions I have mentioned above - and I am sure there are more - the governing bodies seemed to turn a blind eye to the practice for a long time apart from the odd crackdown as we have seen.

Maybe the bigger question is should the 'meejum' make a comeback universally? Something similar is already around in certain bars, especially those of a crafty persuasion, who sell their drinks in various volumes depending on the strength and the price, which is akin to what the meejum was I think.

Perhaps we have come full circle in one way? Although I am not convinced that asking for a meejum in most bars in this country would get you much more than funny looks ...

Liam

(All written content and the research involved in publishing it here is my own unless otherwise stated and cannot be reproduced elsewhere without permission, full credit to its source and a link back to this post.)

Newspaper images © The British Library Board. All rights reserved. With thanks to The British Newspaper Archive  -www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk  - where most of the information I've complied here was sourced.)

* Sligo Champion - Saturday 08 October 1960

** Dundalk Examiner and Louth Advertiser. - Saturday 28 May 1904

*** Cork Daily Herald - Monday 10 October 1892