Travel: Pearse Lyons Distillery, Dublin - Out of my Depth...

I know very little about whiskey...

So I was a little surprised to get an invite to one of the official openings of the Pearse Lyons Distillery in Dublin a few weeks back. It obviously came on the back of being part of the blogger pack at Alltech Craft Beer Festival earlier this year, and writing a broadly positive piece about it. Regardless of why, I was delighted to receive the invitation and even more delighted to be able to attend, a rare occurrence where some free time in my real life intersected with my imbibing life as a blogger.

The weather was warm and the sun was shining brightly as I made my way from Heuston Station up Steeven's Lane before hanging a left onto James' Street towards the old church of St. James which houses the distillery. The newly built visitors' centre - a sleek glass and stone building that sits extremely comfortably in its surroundings - is just up the street a little, but as I looked through the darkened glass my heart sank a little and panic set in. There were many, many beautiful people dressed to impress thronging the foyer. I looked down to the gate where an equally well dressed gatekeeper was checking in more well-dressed, well-heeled guests. I looked back through the window and caught my own appearance, with my open shirt over a t-shirt, jeans and my ever-present travel bag, all topped off with a pair of scuffed Skechers...

I turned to go, thinking I'd hit a few haunts in the city instead, when I caught site of a few guys with polo-shirts among the well dressed folk. Ah, I though so perhaps I won't be the most casually dressed person here after all? So with a quick pat-down of my hair and holding in my stomach I marched up to the entrance gate, where I was warmly received and pointed towards the entrance doors - without being turned away in disgrace, or being handed a tie to wear.

As I entered the foyer I must have looked a little like a startled rabbit, as I realised that the guys in the polo shorts were actually part of the distillery crew, and actually quite smart looking...

I was indeed the worst dressed person here...

I was the last one ushered through to a small auditorium, where we watched a short film about the history of St. James's and the reasons for creating a distillery here. I lurked at the back, acting nervous and looking shifty I'd imagine, as we watched Dr. Pearse Lyons tell us the story of the church, his connections to it and what it had now become. The history of the site was interesting and Dr. Lyons had a great patter that will certainly appeal to the throngs of tourists they hope to attract to the site.

Afterwards we were directed out towards the church itself, through a graveyard freshly planted with groundcovering pachysandra and I received a grateful drink as we waited for the ribbon cutting ceremony. The church itself gleamed as if newly built and with its new glass spire, it reflected beautifully in the newly built entrance building on such a lovely evening.

Without too much pomp the opening ceremony was performed with the usual scissor escapades, joking and speeches, and then we shuffled into the church to see what it had become, and how a working distillery could be shoehorned into a relatively small building.

It is very clear that there was little or no expense spared in the restoration of the church and the fit-out of the distillery, and Dr. Lyons was quick to point out that this was a project that was wholly in the hands of his wife Deirdre and her team of builders, planners and craftspeople. Everything gleamed and shone, with the two stills taking centre stage - so to speak - on the altar and an extremely expensive looking and impressive brew system from Salm sits to one side, looking hungry for malt, with its tanks sitting open. The new distillery-themed stained glass window glowed in the evening sunlight, with images of coopers and distillers doing their thing. Displays of whiskeys, bourbons, books and beer-scented candles(!) lined the wall in cases made to look like shopfronts, and tables of whiskey samples were laid out for trying and tasting, as gin, beer and water - followed by canapes and sweet treats -  were offered to the invited guests by well dressed waiters.

And so the evening progressed with speeches, singing and schmoozing ... and as one not used to this ligging-lifestyle I must say I found the experience a little surreal. Tenors sang Irish ballads and a piano player gave us a rendition of Happy Birthday in numerous different musical styles, as those waiters wafted by with those gorgeous nibbles and more drinks. Writers of whiskey blogs, drink reviewers from newspapers, other whiskey making people and those who helped create this place all laughing, talking and asking all the right questions - enjoying themselves. I felt out-of-place, awkward, still underdressed and more than a little bemused by all the touristy-touches, songs and stories...

But then it dawned on me ... this place wasn't about me nor was it aimed at me, so I should feel awkward, as I'm an outsider in every way. This is about the Lyons family, it's about the history of the church, it's about the people of this area of Dublin, it's about whiskey lovers and most importantly it's about tourists and those who will pay to visit. I don't think it's even about the money spent or revenue to be gained ... as my overwhelming feeling was for the passion injected into the project and of all of those involved wanting to do the right thing by the building, the local area, the local community and those visitors who would soon be welcomed.

I had been utterly selfish and foolish in my thought process...

I came to the conclusion that maybe it's not always just about the whiskey, or beer, or whatever ... and it's not really about people like me, and nor should it be.

Once I realised all of this I let my nagging negativity wash over me and started to enjoy myself. I tasted all the whiskies and listened to the spiels, preferring the Distiller’s Choice of the four whiskeys offered. There are enough reviews of the whiskies out there from brighter minds and better palates than mine so I'll leave it to them to discuss the finer points of flavour, age and provenance ... but I can say than anyone I talked to was quite open with their information, and this is now a working distillery.

Unsurprisingly my most interesting chat was with one of the distillers, with whom I talked for a half an hour about beer, sampling both the Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale - which seemed to have more body and flavour than how I remember it - and the Bourbon Barrel Stout - which had less than I remember. Both of these are brewed up in Station Works Brewery up in Newry, which I must admit has never excited me with their varied offerings - but as here, I doubt I'm the target audience...

Just as I was getting comfortable and enjoying the wonderful building and the people, I realised that I had to leave or I'd be late for my train, so with a quick goodbye to Tracey Flinter the manager of the distillery I went looking for Dr. Lyons or Deirdre to thank them for the evening, but both were in deep conversation. I hopped from foot to foot waiting but eventually had to run for my train, luckily it was all down hill to the station. The doors closed behind me as I dragged my dishevelled, puffing self inside and collapsed on a seat, wheezing and thinking hard in equal measure as the train pulled out of the station and began its journey back to Carlow.

I'd learned a little about whisky ... and a lot about myself.

Many thanks, Pearse Lyons Distillery!

P.S. Huge, huge thanks to the guy in the NASA t-shirt who arrived in late and relegated me to second worst dressed at the opening.

Liam

(Full disclosure: Yes, all the samples were free. No I wasn't paid to attend and write this, and yes, I even paid my own train fare - gladly!)